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Diving safari Mozambique
Introduction Mozambique
Itinerary
General Info
Diving
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Itinerary

Alright, you’ve done all the brochure research, made the booking, packed the bag, bought the film and guide book and now you have found your way to Pretoria to meet your fellow travelers and embark on a Mozambiquan adventure.

Pretoria
Before we head off, there are some interesting spots in Pretoria you might want to consider. You can have a look for instance how 'Father Kruger' is watching over his money in the bank at Church Square. Or you can go and have a look at materialized Afrikaner pride, the 'Voortrekkers Monument'. Very popular is the Lion Park. Have you ever fed a giraffe or played with lion cups?

If you want contrast, Soweto is a must, the cradle of the Anti-Apartheid movement. The house which Nelson and Winnie Mandela lived in, during times when they were still fighting the white regime and not one another, can still be visited, including bullet holes and the original Mandela toilet.

Swaziland
The next day we board the truck and are on our way to Swaziland; a little, cozy and hilly kingdom, enclosed by its big brother South Africa. The only country in the world without a cinema and where they have no problem canceling a public holiday because the king isn’t feeling too well. We stop at a crafts market in Ezulwini Valley, or ' Valley of Heaven', where you can go mad shopping for goodies. We discover that it is not just 'heaven' when, if possible, we visit an orphanage. Emanuel Khayalethu offers a safe haven for abused and abandoned kids and Compass Travel has promised to try and help them. At the end of day we reach
Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.The whole next day is available to explore the antelopes, zebra’s, warthogs and crocodiles in the park. This can be done on horseback, on mountain bike, on foot, or you can sit back and get driven around. But, you can also dare the Usuthu River and try to master the grade 3, grade 4 rapids in 2-men rafts or go adventure caving. As the day comes to an end, we can sip our drinks, feet up, while we watch the hippo’s being fed and the sun sets over the pool next to the veranda. We close off with traditional Swazi dancing, before we retire to our beehive huts (if available).
The next stop are the private grounds of His Majesty the King Mswati lll, Hlane Royal National Park. In this park are all Big 5, but buffalo. There's a waterhole close to the camp site where one can often find rhino's drink and bath. Guides will offer 'Rhino walks' for those who dare to approach them.

Mozambique
We cross into Mozambique at Namaacha border post, where I can guarantee your first taste of Mozambiquan efficiency, after which we go for the culture shock in Maputo, a challenge on its own. But for whom allows themselves the time to see through the bubble of chaos and noise, a city with a rich cultural and historical background will unfold itself. Decrepit buildings bear witness to Portuguese influences, the wide 'avenida’s' with names like Mao Tse Tung and Fidel Castro are remains of an Marxist era with lots of struggle. But the beautiful City Hall is a symbol of a country in reconstruction after hard times. Fortunately for the visitor, lots has remained intact: the art galleries and studio’s, the fort, the cathedral and the IJffel House; a construction entirely made out of iron, causing such oven-like temperatures that it was never put into use. We spend the night 50 km out of Maputo at campsite Casa Lisa.

Tofo Beach
Further north we will encounter typical Mozambiquan villages and the landscape will change gradually. Wild berries make room for palm trees and the traffic will be replaced by beautiful lagoons. The sport of bartering is tested when we stop at a local market. With permission you can taste the sometimes unknown goods, and when purchasing make sure you negotiate for the local price- as opposed to the tourist price. The next three days we stay at the local campsite. Two days are at our disposal to explore the waters around Tofo, not only known for the multitude of reefs, but where you also might bump into whale sharks, manta rays, or giant turtles and in season even humpback whales.

local rikshaw

Specialty trainings can be provided here, like deep dive training. There’s no need for the non-divers to get bored. For those who have never been under water, the local dive school can organize introduction dives, you can take surfing lessons, there's a village to discover, a very inviting beach at your disposal or you can splash some waves on horseback. The locals will show us the Mozambiquan way of life during a village tour. They will show you how to build houses out of palm leaves, what can be grow on sandy soil, how the hierarchy of the community works and how to chop coconuts with a machete.

We have to continue, but not before we have nosed around a bit in Inhambane, one of the oldest European settlements in southern Africa. As a Portuguese trading post, Inhambane made the history books due to the ivory-, but even more so, the slave trade. In its high days, around 1850, an average of 1500 slaves a year passed through its harbor for export to Brazil. A short dhow trip across the Baia de Inhambane takes you from the peninsula to the main land, where the truck awaits you for the next stretch.

Bazaruti Archipellago
In the afternoon we arrive in the little fishing town Vilanculos. In the maze of market stalls, a motley crew of articles is available. Your nose will indicate the fish section where a wide variety is to be found and without a doubt, your ears will trace the local 'shebeen'. Three nights we stay in Vilanculos. Off the coast is 'Parque Nacional de Bazaruto'. The islands are known to be of the most beautiful of Africa: crystal clear water, white palm beaches, coral reefs. The divers will be impressed by the spectacular Two Mile Reef. Imagine an encounter with the nearly extinct and elusive Dugong! Should you have no desire to move so deep, a sailing trip by dhow to the island and snorkeling is another option. A dhow is a wooden boat, introduced in the Middle Ages by Arab tradesmen and it still is a popular mode of transport. To us it’s a relaxing trip, but should the winds take us in the direction of Madagascar, we will reinforce with a bit more modern technique.

All islands are inhabited and interesting for a day visit. A few shades darker, or at least with a burned nose, we return to Vilanculos.

(The Mozambiquan government has closed down all budget accommodation on the islands. Therefore we now stay in Vilanculos for 3 nights. This has no consequences for the diving as well as the dhow safari and visit to Benguerra. )

Barra Point
The next morning we turn 180° and head south to Barra Point, back on he Inhambane peninsula. The northern end of the peninsula consists of beautiful mangroves and lagoons and the options are endless. The beach is stunning, you pitch underneath the palm trees and you can go for a dip, zipping cocktails at the neighbors. Quad biking takes on a new dimension when you discover that the area is tidal. You will be soaked, for sure. Should you wish to stay dry, you can take it more easy in a canoe or a bit higher on horse back. Sunset cruises on a catamaran are offered in the lagoon. The divers have a choice of several reefs and different specialties can be organized. Sometimes it is possible to squeeze in a night dive. We spend three nights here, in chalets.

The proceeding route takes us through the Xai Xai wet lands. In 2000 this area made world news when people were rescued from tree tops. After the floods there has been massive construction; enormous dams have arisen from the clay and the toll bridge over the Limpopo River is very impressive. Characteristic pictures of local women doing their washing, fishermen working their nets and children playing in the water. Our aim is a campsite Casa Lisa.

Kruger Park
We return to the main road and continue to the Lobombo border post, leaving Mozambique behind us. The famous Kruger Park is next, a park of about 24000 km2 and declared a protected area over a hundred years ago by the very person it was named after, Mr Paul Kruger. Intentions are to merge Kruger Park with adjacent land in Mozambique, which would mean an incredible improvement as wildlife would regain the chance to follow ancient migratory patterns over an extended range. Though Limpopo Transfrontier Park has recently opened to the public, the local Mozambiquans are not inclined to leave the area and game is scarce. Efforts are made to relocate game from Kruger Park, but most animals tend to turn around and go back to their birth ground.

Intensive searching, patience and lack of toilet opportunities will certainly reward us with pretty pictures of elephants at waterholes, crossing zebra's, evasive duikers, curious ground hornbills and with some luck, mighty lions or chasing cheetah's. For the more fanatical, we can try to organize an optional night drive. We spend three days in the park until at the end of day three, we leave the park and camp in Hazyview, 20 km away.

Once we are back in Pretoria we finish with a goodbye dinner and hopefully, you will leave us not only with an additional bag of souvenirs, full memory cards and a tanned head, but also with new friends, a new passion, a journal full with stories of an incredible (diving) safari and a memory to last a lifetime.

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