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Whale sharks
in Mozambique
The whale shark is the biggest fish in the world; fully grown, it easily reaches 12 meters from head to toe. Despite its size, the whale shark is completely harmless, as this 14 tons giant feeds on plankton only. They occupy the upper layers of tropical and sub-tropical waters. Without any motion, the current takes them adrift just beneath the surface, mouth wide open. Their enormous gills filter the plankton out of the water and any waste is disposed off by little parasite fish. Their size, gentle character and the fact that they live close to the surface, allows a safe approach by humans. This experience, should you be one of the lucky ones with a mark on the 'been-there-done-it-
list', is guaranteed never to be forgotten.
Mozambique is fortunate with its great numbers of whale sharks passing its waters annually. They are commonly known to be summer visitors. Numbers up to 25 are possible during boat trips, and in winter, April till November, chances of an encounter are considerable. In the winter of 2003, off the coast of Tofo, which is the place to spot whale sharks and manta's, at least one was spotted every single day. An incredible score. The biggest group noted in that season, 15 whale sharks at Tofinho Point just outside Tofo, were feeding on large quantities of plankton and stayed around for at least three hours.
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The best way to register this event is by jumping into the water, armed with snorkel and fins. Only then will their true size really kick in. Undisturbed, the whale shark floats along, at or underneath the surface. It is very important to avoid contact as touching the skin can cause damage making them susceptible to infections.
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Manta's
The manta is the biggest known species of the ray. They have been measured up to 9 meters, but on average they reach approximately 6 meters and weigh up to 1350kg. Like enormous Ufo's, they glide through the water with grace and skill, sometimes even jumping into mid air. Though related to the shark, they do not resemble them at all. They are flat, have sort of wings, knobs on their head and a short tail. Manta's do not have teeth and like whale sharks filter plankton out of the water as they float. |
This makes them harmless to humans and a rendez vous at 20 meters depth very impressive. Manta's prefer the open ocean, but sometimes gather at places known as 'cleaning stations'. These are locations on reefs, where little reef fish nibble parasites off the skin of the manta's. Tofo is blessed with few of those 'cleaning stations' within reach, which makes the odds of spotting manta's there very high. A survey has showed that about 300 manta's reside in the Tofo area. Dozens at a time hover over the reefs, as a giant car wash, to have themselves cleansed as they indulge on loads of plankton.
Compass
Travel has been active in Mozambique for five years now and have met these wonderful creatures on many occasions. If not in Tofo, every trip we did in 2002, 2005, 2006 and 2007 we hit jackpot and in 2003 and 2004 in all but one. In 2008 we weren't as lucky, we saw them in 5 out of 8 trips. |
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Tofo & Inhambane
The first attraction of Tofo of course is that has developed into a hotspot for the maniac Scuba diver. Tofo has about 20 reefs in its front yard to choose from, with exotic names such as 'Arena', 'Oasis' and 'Manta Reef'. Chances to tag off 'big boys' are very high on the deeper reefs. The walls of the dive centre, covered with pictures of whale sharks, manta's and humpbacks, bear witness and increase the expectations. All dives are performed in semi-inflatable Zodiacs and it's a bit of a push getting the boat through the surf. All dives are drift dives and the visibility is approximately 12 meters; not always perfect pictures circumstances, but please keep in mind that if there was no plankton, there would be no big fish. The water temperature is about 22°C to 24°C, making a 5 mill, full length suit desirable. |
| Tofo is, apart from the great diving, a cosy village with a lovely atmosphere and it is rapidly developing into a meeting place for relaxed travelers. It's situated 20km from Inhambane, a world heritage site, on the ocean side of the peninsula. Tofo is originally a fishing village, its population still living in traditional manner. Go for a walk on the beach and check how fishermen bring in their catch of the day. Little settlements scatter around Tofo, all produced out of anything a palm tree has to offer. Given the opportunity, you must definitely try the local drink palm wine, produced from palm trees. As you explore the area, locals will welcome you and show you how they make mats from leaves, how to chop a coconut with a machete and how to grow cassava on sandy soil. Scurrying chickens, pots on hot coals, women with jars on their heads and lots of kids; with no running water, electricity and sanitation most Mozambiquans lead a simple life. In the centre of Tofo is a craft market and a few stalls that pass for the local super market. Unless you master Portuguese, all negotiations will have to be with hands and feet, though English is moving in rapidly nowadays. |
As Tofo is becoming more popular, more restaurants and beach bars arise and more activities are offered. You can now go out deep sea fishing, take surfing lessons and race the beach on horse back. Excursions to Barra Point as well as Inhambane are worth while. In all, Tofo has enough to keep you busy for a week or so.
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| Compass Travel can organize short holidays in Tofo, especially for those with manta's and whale sharks high on the wishing list. This is an unguided trip and the accommodation is B&B. |
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Costs
From €315,- pp
Minimum
2 persons
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Included
• All airport transfers
• 7 nights in simple chalets in the centre, B&B
Flights between Maputo, Johannesburg and Inhambane are on Monday, Wednesday and Friday only.
Please keep this into account when organising flight.
Extra costs
• Food and drinks
• Visa Mozambique
• Personal spendings and excursions |
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Diving
It is possible to book dive packages of 10 dives and/or snorkel trips. This can be pre-arranged and needs to be prepaid, together with the trip costs.
10
dives excluding gear, €370,- pp
10 dives including gear, €450,- pp
Dives rates are susceptible to change. Any surcharges are not included.
The diving is weather dependant |
Itinerary
| Day
1 |
Arrive Inhambane/Tofo |
Double room
or chalet in Tofo, B&B |
| Day
2 t/m 7 |
Stay at
Tofo, diving |
Double
room or chalet in Tofo, B&B |
| Day
8 |
Leave Tofo/Inhambane |
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